PORTLAND’S ROSE GARDENS & THE INTERNATIONAL ROSE TEST GARDEN

May 11th, 2012

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HISTORY

In 1888, Georgiana Burton Pittock, wife of pioneer publisher Henry Pittock, invited her friends and neighbors to exhibit their roses in a tent set up in her garden. Thus began the annual rose show for Portland Rose Society. Jesse A. Currey, a former Rose Society president, convinced city fathers to inaugurate a rose test garden in 1917 with the support of the American Rose Society, City officials, and civic –minded citizens. At that time, Portland had 20 miles of rose-bordered streets – a strategy to draw attention to the 1905 Lewis and Clark Centennial celebration. As a result, Portland was dubbed “City of Roses”. The garden was a perfect opportunity for enhancing that reputation.

Founded in 1917, Portland’s International Rose Test Garden is the oldest official, continuously operated public rose test garden in the United States. In the beginning, even though World War I was raging in Europe, hybridists sent roses from around the world to Portland’s garden for testing and to keep the new hybrids safe from being destroyed by the bombing in Europe.

THE GOLD MEDAL GARDEN
The primary purpose of this garden is to serve as a testing ground for new rose varieties. The City of Portland Gold Medal Awards are issued annually to the best introductions. The first “Gold Medal” rose award was given in 1919, making it the oldest rose testing program of its kind in the United States. Portland is the only North American city to issue such awards. These award winning varieties are planted in the Gold Medal Garden.
The terrace above the Shakespeare garden was originally planted in old garden roses. By 1959, so many Gold Award roses had crept into the terrace that it became known as the Gold Award Garden and the old garden roses were moved to another area of the garden.

With the support of the Portland Rose Society, today’s Gold Medal Garden was constructed in 1969 commemorating 50 years of Gold Medal awards in the City of Roses. In 1991, the Portland Rose Society donated the gazebo to the Gold Medal Garden, a popular spot for weddings and a wonderful vantage point from which to view the award winning roses.
Click here for a PDF of Gold Medal roses

Portland Rose Society >>

INTERNATIONAL ROSE TEST GARDEN
The International Rose Test Garden is also one of 24 official testing sites for the internationally respected All-America Rose Selections (AARS). The All-American Rose Selections is a non-profit association of rose growers and introducers dedicated to the introduction and promotion of exceptional roses. Since 1938 the AARS seal of approval has graced outstanding new rose varieties that have performed the best in the test gardens located throughout the country and representing all climate zones. AARS testing began here in Portland in 1940.

Roses currently under test in the garden are not named but are designated only by a number. The new varieties are submitted by the hybridizers to the AARS, who then distributes them to the test gardens identified only by their code number. Four plants of each entry are evaluated for two years on 14 different characteristics consumers desire in a garden plant including plant habit, vigor, disease resistance, color, flower production, form, foliage, and fragrance. About 200 rose cultivars are under test each year.


MINIATURE ROSE GARDEN
The garden is also one of only six testing grounds for the American Rose Society miniature rose test program. The national annual winners from both ARS and AARS associations are displayed in the middle of the garden along the center aisle.


SHAKESPEARE GARDEN
A popular spot found within the garden is the Shakespeare Garden. Dedicated in 1945, this garden donated by the LaBarre Shakespeare Club was originally designed to include only herbs, trees and flowers mentioned in Shakespeare’s plays. Some of the trees have done so well in this garden, that their extensive shade has made it impossible to grow many of those original sun-loving plant varieties. The garden continues to honor the Bard with roses named after characters in his plays.

The informal design features graceful trees, brick walks and hundreds of annuals and perennials besides roses. Over the years, this garden has been the site for hundreds of weddings. A favorite spot for picnics, its shady lawn quickly transports visitors to faraway lands.

The focal point of the garden is a brick wall with a plaque featuring Williams Shakespeare’s image and his quote, “Of all flowers methinks a rose is best.”


QUEEN’S WALK

At the foot of the Rose Garden is the Queen’s Walk. It was established in 1952 to honor all past, present and future Queens of Portland’s Rose Festival.

The Portland Rose Festival, Oregon’s premier civic celebration, has been a Northwest tradition since 1907. Carrie Lee Chamberlain, the governor’s daughter, reigned as Queen Flora over the Festival’s inaugural year. From 1908 to 1913 a king, Rex Oregonus, ruled over the festival. The identity of this king was kept secret until revealed at the festival’s annual ball. In 1914, Thelma Hollingsworth was the first elected Queen of Rosaria. Various methods and criteria were used to select the Queens through 1930.

Beginning in 1931, the Queen has been a Portland high school senior. Each of 14 local high schools selects one ambassador (previously called princesses) who together comprises the Rose Festival Court. One court member is chosen to be the Portland Rose Festival Queen. The Queen reigns over all Rose Festival events and represents the City of Roses in her ambassadorial travels to communities near and far.

One of their greatest and longest lasting honors is when the plaque bearing her name and signature is installed in the Queen’s Walk. The reigning Queen gets a special place of honor, with her plaque being placed in the center of semi-circle of bricks which overlooks the City of Portland from the Rose Garden. Each year, at the end of her reign, the out-going Queen’s plaque is moved to the walkway to join the other monarchs who have gone before her, to make room in the overlook for the new Queen of Rosaria.

Click here for list of all Rose Festival Queens since 1907.

Click here for more information on the Portland Rose Festival and Portland Rose Festival Association.


FRANK L BEACH MEMORIAL FOUNTAIN

Frank L. Beach, a rose enthusiast credited with dubbing Portland as the “City of “Roses” was honored in 1974 with the dedication of this Memorial Fountain in the rose garden.

The fountain was designed by artist Lee Kelly.

When is the best time to start up my sprinkler system in spring?

May 1st, 2012

Opening your sprinkler system for the season will depend on the weather conditions and your individual watering needs. As a general rule, the system should not be opened until the threat of frost is passed. If you are an early planter, we recommend waiting to open your system until after April 15. By planting standards, the 2nd Sunday in May is considered to be the safe date to avoid frost damage, making May the ideal month to open your system. If you have a particularly rainy spring, you may even choose to open your system in June, although you should be sure to have the system fully operational before the heat of the summer.

sprinklerParadise Restored will be happy to schedule your spring turn-on/ tune-up or you may try the steps listed below for your convenience -

  1. Be sure the manual drain valve is closed. This valve is usually located below or before the backflow device outside your house.
  2. Slowly open the gate valve. This valve is usually located after the meter in the basement on the line going out of your house to the backflow device.
  3. Check the main line, valves, and backflow device for any sign of leakage. Repair breaks as needed.
  4. Open the front cover of your sprinkler timer, find the battery backup (if it has one) and replace. Follow the instructions in your sprinkler’s timer manual. Go through all the zones one at a time. Check each zone for water coverage, leaky heads and breaks.
  5. Cut and clean any excess lawn or plant growth away from the sprinkler heads that would inhibit proper operation of the sprinkler head.
  6. Check and make sure the sprinkler heads are level and flush with the grade of the lawn, to insure that they will not be hit my mowers or other lawn equipment.
  7. Be sure your sprinkler heads are at least an inch away from walks or curbing to insure that edgers do not hit them.
  8. Check that the sprinkler heads are adjusted properly and coverage is correct for each zone area. Adjust heads as necessary using your hand and/or tools.
  9. Make sure the sprinkler heads are not clogged. If clogged, unscrew the head casing or nozzle and check the filter at the base or in the stem of the head. Clean out the filter with air or water. Check to see if a stone or other debris is lodged in the nozzle; clean or replace as necessary.
  10. If you experience problems with a particular zone, turn that zone off on the timer so the rest of the system can continue to operate normally.

We suggest checking your system at least two additional times during the watering season. It is especially helpful to check the system whenever you experience severe weather changes, such as increased rain or periods of drought. If you have any problems, please call Paradise Restored for assistance! 503-788-3117

MAY GARDENING TIPS

April 26th, 2012

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GENERAL TASKS & GARDEN MAINTENANCE

Beware treacherous late frosts and keep vulnerable plants and new shoots protected at night if frost is forecast. Don’t be tempted to put out tender bedding until the middle of the month and even then be prepared to cover it if necessary.

Continue with the spring cleaning. Hoe your borders to get rid of weeds before they take hold (ideally on a dry day to desiccate the victims) – annual weeds are enough of a nightmare without allowing them to go forth and multiply by seeding. If it’s dry, attack ground elder and the like with systemic weed killer. Remember these systemic weed killers are indiscriminate and will kill anything they contact. Dandelions are a monstrous nuisance at this time of year – if you don’t have time to deal with them terminally, at least chop their heads off before they set seed.

Water is a precious commodity – instigate good practices for watering, collect rainwater and investigate ways to recycle water for your irrigation. Automatic watering systems are economical with water, as well as convenient! The trick with watering is to water thoroughly once or twice a week rather than little and often (containers etc do need watering every day).

Mulch away while you can still see what you are doing and before the herbaceous growth really takes off. Use your own garden compost or leaf mould, well rotted manure, the contents of out-of-date grow bags or ready-made soil conditioner.

Now the soil is warming up and things are starting to grow, add general purpose fertiliser before covering with mulch especially in borders, the fruit and vegetable patch and containers. If you have already mulched, draw it back (if possible), tease the soil a little, add fertiliser and replace the mulch.

Carry on removing moss and weeds from paths, terraces and drives and keep an eye out for pests around the garden. Try to keep the use of chemical controls to a minimum – they may kill off pests, but they also kill off the beneficial insects that prey on them such as ladybirds and hoverfly larvae.

Now is the time to wage war on slugs and snails. They love tulips and delicacies such as the delicious young shoots of delphiniums and the like, so use pet-friendly slug pellets, drench the ground around hostas with liquid slug killer to exterminate slugs below the surface – all are available from the garden centre. Keep an eye out for snails and pick them off….what you do with them is up to you. Birds are your friends here – flat stones artfully located are useful accessories for birds to practise their snail bashing techniques.

Other unwelcome visitors on the move are lily beetles (bright red little darlings with black heads or their yellow larvae) and the black-spotted green caterpillars of the gooseberry sawfly. Squash meaningfully or spray with deadly chemicals.

BIRDS

Do keep putting out bird food – they quickly become accustomed to regular food supplies and it’s a real treat to see wild birds in the garden. To encourage our feathered friends to visit, provide one or two bird houses and feeding stations as well as bird food – a great for amateur and avid bird watchers alike.

TREES, SHRUBS, CLIMBERS

Ensure trees or shrubs planted in the last couple of years on lawns or in areas of rough grass have a circle of clear earth around them – this MUST be kept clear or grass will prevent essential moisture getting through. Mulching with bark or compost will help.

Hard pruned clematis should now be growing vigorously – tying the new stems in regularly will prevent a haphazard tangle of new shoots which can break easily.

Cut wispy dead wood on Japanese maples back to healthy wood – do not leave any pegs or snags.

Twist off the spent flower heads of rhododendrons and azaleas and mulch with composted bark, garden compost or leaf mold after watering if the ground is dry. Feed with an acid feed.

Feed acid loving plants such as camellias and rhododendrons with ericaceous feed if you are on neutral or alkaline soil. A dose of sequestered iron also helps prevent the leaves turning yellow. (Tip – mulch regularly with fresh or composted pine needles. This can acidify the ground slightly.)

Spray roses with fungicide to ward against black spot and mildew. Repeat every fortnight until the autumn. Remember that if an infection sets in, all the stricken leaves must be burnt – do not leave them on the compost heap as this will become the perfect incubation site. Feed with a foliar feed and beware greenfly – treat immediately if an infestation occurs – ask in the garden centre for advice as to what to use if you are unsure.

BULBS, FLOWERS, & CONTAINERS

Protect new spring shoots from frosts and slugs….

Thin annuals to prevent them becoming spindly and leggy – a gap of 6 inches between seedlings is usually about right.

Tidy up spring flowering perennials – cut off the old foliage, lift and divide large clumps and replant with plenty of water and organic fertilizer.

Deadhead narcissi and tulips as they go over and sprinkle with bonemeal or liquid foliar feed. If you can bear it, allow them to die down naturally before clearing away the foliage and lifting and splitting towards the end of the month.

Cut back spreading and trailing plants such as alyssum and aubrieta to encourage fresh growth.

If you haven’t already done so erect supports for herbaceous plants such as peonies, delphiniums and oriental poppies prone to undignified collapse. As the Horti Expert points out it’s a bit late now but better late than never – make your own supports using hazel or birch twigs for a natural look that will fade into the border as your plants grow.

Sow hardy annuals such as nasturtium, calendula and poppies in drifts – clashing colours just don’t matter in a garden, but remember to plant taller plants behind shorter ones. Sow cornflowers and larkspurs when the soil is warmer.

Tie in sweet peas using sweet pea rings or soft twine. Removing tendrils and sideshoots will result in longer stemmed flowers.

Summer bedding is now available in the centres as young plants for you to grow on – much easier than growing from seed or cuttings. Remember though, do not be beguiled by warm days – a late spring frost will wreak havoc with these plants unless protected and slowly hardened off.

Make sure pots and containers don’t dry out, especially if they are near a wall and in a sheltered position.

Plant up tubs, containers and hanging baskets for a blaze of colour throughout the summer – remember to harden tender plants off properly before exposing them to the elements.


THATCH & LAWN

April 20th, 2012

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Thatch and How to Manage It

Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.

The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade).

Aerating a lawn allows essential nutrients such as Oxygen, Phosphorus and Potassium to better penetrate the roots of grass. The process involves mechanically poking thousands of holes in the ground, using an aerator machine.

Here are three signs that it could be time to aerate your yard:

Your lawn is thinning. If your yard seems to be thinning and you can’t trace any other obvious cause, such as a new source of shade or watering changes, the reason may be soil compaction.

Lawn fertilizer doesn’t do much good anymore. When soil is highly compacted, the lawn fertilizer nutrients are unable to reach the roots of grass. If you fertilize but don’t see much in the way of results, you may have overly compacted soil.

You have a lot of runoff. Overly compacted soil doesn’t absorb water as well as soil with space between particles. If you’re starting to see more runoff than normal, and more rain or irrigation isn’t the cause, you may need to aerate.

GARDEN TIPS

April 16th, 2012

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SNAP HOOKS FOR BASKETS: Like cheap solutions to common gardening problems? Anyone who’s grown a hanging basket or pot knows that unless you regularly turn the container, your plants grow better and fuller on the sunnier side and sparser on the shadier side. It’s fairly easy to rotate pots a quarter of a turn every few days to keep the growth even — assuming you can remember to do it. It’s much tougher to turn a hanging basket. You have to climb up, remove the hook and re-hang it in a different position.

Enter a not-so-new gizmo called a “snap hook,” typically sold in hook, hanger and/or key-chain sections of home centers and hardware stores. These sturdy hooks have a snap-in-place hook at one end and a solid eye at the other. More important, they rotate. If you attach your basket hook to the eye and then secure the thing to your overhang by the snap hook, you can then simply rotate the basket without removing it. You can buy a $3 hook at Home Depot that’s rated for 70 pounds. It works beautifully — and this year you wont have lopsided growth.

JAPANESE GARDEN DESIGN

April 4th, 2012

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The garden, like any art form, has evolved over most of the world. As with other art forms, the garden has developed in many different directions. In England, where much of the American gardening heritage hails from, clipped lawns and formal rose gardens rule the day. Across the channel, France has given us the parterre and the allee, sure marks of man’s hand on the land. Even the Italian villa lays out its paths and beds in formal, straight lines. The Western view, indeed the scope of civilization’s progress in the Western Hemisphere, has been the story of man’s domination over nature, bending it to suit his own needs and desires. It is therefore natural that our gardening traditions reflect this paradigm.

The Eastern philosophies see nature in an entirely different light. Nature was viewed as an ally in putting food on the table, and revered as the ideal of beauty. It was not something to be subjugated. Instead of imposing a man-made ideal of beauty on the landscape, nature was synthesized in miniature in the garden. This philosophy of gardening reached its height in ancient Japan. Borrowing heavily from the Chinese model, the Japanese distilled a form of gardening that reflected (and defined) their own culture. What had simply been a place to enjoy a sunny day now became not only a place for deep reflection, but also the seat of cultural refinement for thousands of years.

In the Japanese garden, one can find the key to the soul of its people. From the carefully washed and swept path of the tea garden, to the veiled view of a pine tree glimpsed through the opening in a sleeve fence, the psyche of this ancient culture reveals itself. Koko, the veneration of timeless age, shizen, or the avoidance of the artificial, and yugen, or darkness (implying the mysterious or subtle), best revealed by miegakure, or the avoidance of full expression; all these are to be found in the lowliest Japanese garden. Perhaps in coming to understand the art of gardening, we can gain understanding of its people and a deeper appreciation of the world around us. http://www.helpfulgardener.com/japanese/2003/

Wheat country – An Amazing Landscape design

April 3rd, 2012

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In wheat country in the Columbia River basin, they gathered to celebrate dryland farming

MORO — The rolling hills of the Columbia Basin, the expanse just east of the Cascade Range, must have looked all right to the homesteaders who arrived in the 1870s. The lush land along the rivers and in the Willamette Valley was snapped up decades earlier by Oregon Trail pioneers, but here was wide open.

The lack of trees should have been a clue. In return for passage, the Cascades force clouds sailing in from the Pacific Ocean to dump their moisture on the west side. The new farmers would have to get by with nine to 12 inches of rain a year, less than a third of the rainfall enjoyed by their cohorts in the valley.

That fact has shaped life ever since in Sherman, Gilliam and Morrow counties, part of Wasco County and in Klickitat County across the Columbia in Washington. Farming out here is largely done dryland style, without irrigation.

They’ve tried about everything but there’s still just one crop and one method that thrives in the basin: winter wheat on summer fallow. They plant wheat in the fall and leave it to tough it out during the winter months, when the scant rain or snow falls. That’s the moisture it draws on all spring and summer, until harvest in July. The fields harvested each summer are left bare, or fallow, the next season. The rotational break allows the fields to store extra water for when it’s their turn again, and results in a patchwork landscape, vast acres of alternating brown and bright green.

It works because wheat is a “tough and very forgiving crop” and a most efficient water user, says Bill Schillinger, who’s written about it for Washington State University’s dryland research station across the river.

Despite the lack of water, the sparsely populated basin produces 60 percent of the Pacific Northwest’s wheat crop. Almost all of it is soft white wheat, exported to Japan and elsewhere in Asia and made into noodles, cookies and crackers. For all Portland’s sophistication and romance with high-tech, wheat is the leading product shipped out of the city’s port. Sherman County alone, with 1,700 people, grew 4.8 million  bushels of wheat last year — a bushel is about 60 pounds of wheat, enough to fill a five-gallon bucket.

But it’s a style of farming that requires tenacity, optimism and perspective from those who practice it, like the six generations of Thompsons who have raised wheat just outside of Moro for the past 130 years.

“I can’t say I’ve made a lot of money, but I didn’t go broke,” says a grinning Ron Thompson, 57, who farms 1,300 acres. “I’ve been farming since I was 20. I tell people that I’ve spent most of my life going three miles per hour, by myself,” driving lumbering farm equipment.

He doesn’t regret it.

“I love the growing part,” he says. “Can you imagine a 2,000 acre garden?

“It’s a family tradition,” Thompson adds with a shrug. “They made it through, and the neighbors aren’t any different.”

It’s a region that doesn’t tolerate complainers, says Steve Petrie, superintendent of Oregon State University’s Columbia Basin Agricultural Research Center in Moro. “It’s people who are more resilient, more independent, more hardy and self-reliant. When you live in the middle of Sherman County, it’s a 45 minute drive to the hardware store. You don’t hop to the store to get a loaf of bread.”

That’s what they celebrated last week in Moro, although technically, it was the 100th anniversary of the research center’s founding. The event drew OSU President Ed Ray, College of Agricultural Sciences Dean Sonny Ramaswamy  and more than 100 farmers and state and federal researchers. They watched draft horse exhibitions, nodded at old wheat varieties growing in demonstration plots, looked at antique farm implements in the county’s museum and sat down for speeches and a gigantic harvest-style lunch at the high school.

It was an audience that appreciated the shared history of a hardscrabble place. Ramaswamy said it reflected the pioneer spirit. “This is what the American farmer is all about,” he said.

Petrie, the research station superintendent, displayed the first annual report filed in 1910.

The 1909 Oregon Legislature appropriated $2,500 annually for an experiment station that would “demonstrate the conditions under which useful plants may be grown on dry, arid or non-irrigated lands.” Something in addition to wheat.

The station opened the following year in Moro, chosen because the railroad passed through town and, as the county seat, it was “most likely to be visited at least once a year by practically every farmer and businessman in the county.”

The station’s mission was clear: Secure seeds of plants from around the world that might be “suitable for growth on dry lands.” Observe and record their growth, yield and composition. Furthermore, investigate and determine the “methods of soil treatment” that best conserve water.

Over the years they tried flax, sorghum, soybeans, field peas and chickpeas. Barley, mustard and spelt. They continue looking for something that will work in a planting rotation with wheat. The latest contender is camelina, which produces oil-rich seeds that can be used to make biodiesel.

Outside of Moro, heading north on Oregon 97, another alternative has sprouted in the rolling hills: line after line of towering wind turbines, blades spinning to generate electricity.

But what still works in the basin is one crop and one method. Beneath the towers, the land is bright green with the spring’s growth. Stalks rustle in the chill wind, thick heads bend with the weight of developing kernels.

Winter wheat on summer fallow.

Eric Mortenson, The Oregonian

LAWN AERATION – Benefits:

March 29th, 2012

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? Controls thatch

? Promotes thicker turf growth

? Strengthens turf against weeds

? Prevents excess compaction

? Improves the soil structure

? Helps create growth pockets for new roots

? Establishes deeper and healthier root system

? Allows more effective fertilization applications

? Opens the way for water, oxygen and fertilizer to reach the root zone

Semi-annual aeration is advised for all lawns on heavy clay soils, those with a thatch buildup, and any lawn that needs to be “thickened up.

Proper Mulching

March 29th, 2012

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Mulching is one of the best things you can do for the health of trees, shrubs, and flowers, especially newly planted ones without strong root systems.  But it’s important to do it right!

To correctly apply organic mulches, such as shredded pine bark, to trees, start at least three inches from the base working out to the desired diameter. Mulch should be around 3″ in depth.  Be sure not to form a mulch “volcano” (i.e. piling mulch up against the base of a tree or shrub).  This keeps moisture in direct contact with the tree bark, which can harm the plant.

Annual additions to mulch should only be made to maintain proper depth. Be sure to turn the mulch before adding more to prevent a hard surface from forming that deflects water, rather than retaining it.

FARMERS ALMANAC – SPRING FORECAST

March 13th, 2012

us-15-mapTWO MONTH WEATHER FORECAST

MARCH 2012: temperature 45° (2° below avg.); precipitation 3″ (1″ above avg. north, 3″ below south); Mar 1-4: Rain and wet snow, cool; Mar 5-11: Sunny, then rainy periods, mild; Mar 12-23: Rainy periods, coolMar 24-27: Sunny, nice; Mar 28-31: Rain, then sunny, seasonable.

APRIL 2012: temperature 46.5° (3.5° below avg.); precipitation 2.5″ (0.5″ below avg.); Apr 1-4: Rain, then sunny, seasonable;Apr 5-11: Rainy periods, cool;Apr 12-16: Showers, seasonable; Apr 17-21: Rainy, cool; Apr 22-30: Sunny, turning warm.

Annual Weather Summary: November 2011 to October 2012

Winter temperatures will be above normal, on average, especially in the south. Precipitation will be above normal in the north and below in the south, with below-normal snowfall. The coldest and snowiest periods will occur in late December, early to mid-February, and early March.

April and May will be cooler and drier than normal.

Summer will be much warmer and slightly drier than normal. The hottest periods will occur in early and late July and early and mid-August.

September and October will be warmer than normal, with above-normal rainfall in Washington and Oregon and near-normal rainfall in California.